houseplants

A Perfect Monstera Adansonii Soil Recipe for Healthy Plants

December 5, 2023 Leave a Comment

The Monstera Adansonii, also known by its common name The Swiss Cheese Plant, is a gorgeous and easy-to-care-for houseplant. In this post we will teach you all about soil and give you our Monstera Adansonii Soil Recipe along with our plant care tips. But first lets dip into some history and plant characteristics.

The Adansonii is native to the tropical rainforests of Central America and South America, particularly Peru, Ecuador, and Colombia.

Reaching up to 5-10 feet in height indoors but can grow much taller in its natural habitat, this low-growing vine features dark green, oval-shaped leaves with distinctive holes or “windows” that give it its iconic name. These holes are not caused by pests or diseases, but rather by a natural process called fenestration, which helps the plant absorb more light on the lower foliage and allows rainwater to reach the vines and roots.

History:

This plant was first described by French botanist Michel Adanson in 1763.
It was originally named Philodendron pertusum but was later reclassified as Monstera Adansonii in the 1840s.
The Monstera Adansonii became popular as a houseplant in the Victorian era, and its popularity has only increased in recent years through the help of social media.

Interesting facts:

The holes in the leaves are thought to have evolved to help the plant survive in the dense rainforest canopy, where sunlight is scarce.
The Monstera Adansonii is also known as the “five holes plant” or the “monkey mask plant” because of the shape of its leaves.
It’s a relatively low-maintenance plant that’s tolerant of a wide range of conditions, making it a perfect choice for beginner plant parents.
It’s also said to be air-purifying, removing toxins and pollutants from the atmosphere.

If you’re looking for a beautiful, easy-to-care-for houseplant the Monstera Adansonii is a great choice. With its lush foliage and distinctive holes it will add a touch of the tropics to your home.

Monstera Deliciosa Vs Monstera Adansonii

In case you were wondering the Monstera Deliciosa (commonly known as the Swiss Cheese Plant) and Monstera Adansonii are cousins! They belong to the same genus, Monstera, within the Araceae family. This means they share a common ancestor and have similar characteristics, even though they differ in some ways. Many new plant parents may get these two mixed up so let’s get into some detail so you know which plant is which!

Similarities:

Both are climbing vines with aerial roots that can attach to surfaces for support.
Both have large, heart-shaped leaves with the potential for fenestrations (holes) as they mature.
Both prefer bright, indirect sunlight and moderate humidity.
Both are considered relatively easy-care houseplants.

Differences:

Leaf shape: Monstera deliciosa leaves have wider lobes and a more pronounced “drip” tip, while Monstera Adansonii leaves are narrower and more oval-shaped.
Fenestrations: Monstera deliciosa develops larger and more numerous holes compared to the smaller, subtler holes on Monstera Adansonii.
Growth habit: Monstera deliciosa can grow significantly larger and bushier than Monstera Adansonii, reaching up to 10 feet tall indoors.
Flowering: Both can flower, but Monstera deliciosa’s flowers are larger and cream-colored, while Monstera Adansonii’s are smaller and white.

Monstera Deliciosa and Monstera Adansonii are closely related cousins within the Monstera family. They share many characteristics but also have distinct features that make them unique and appealing houseplants in their own right.

If you want more information about the Monstera Deliciosa checkout our plant care guide.

So, whether you prefer the classic Swiss Cheese Plant look with its big, dramatic leaves or the smaller, daintier charm of the Monstera Adansonii, you’re bringing a piece of tropical beauty into your home.

Monstera Adansonii Characteristics and Growth Habits

Characteristics:

Foliage: Deep green, heart-shaped leaves with distinctive holes or “windows” (fenestrations) that develop as the plant matures. These holes allow for better light penetration and rainwater drainage.

Growth habit: This is a climbing vine! It starts out with compact, bushy growth, but as it matures, aerial roots emerge from the nodes. These roots attach to surfaces like poles or trellises, allowing the plant to climb and reach impressive heights (up to 10 feet or more!).
Stems: Long, slender, and aerial, providing support for the climbing habit. They can be green, cream, or even reddish-brown.
Flowering: While not as common indoors, Monstera Adansonii can produce white flowers with a hood-like spathe. These flowers are followed by fruits that resemble small ears of corn, but they’re not edible.

Growth habit variations:

Narrow form: The classic Swiss Cheese Plant, with more elongated leaves and prominent holes.

Round form: Features broader, rounder leaves with fewer fenestrations, creating a fuller appearance.

Additional details:

Relatively fast-growing, especially when provided with bright, indirect light and adequate moisture.

Tolerates low light conditions but thrives in brighter settings.
Enjoys moderate humidity but adapts to average room humidity.
Regular pruning encourages bushier growth and prevents legginess.

Overall, Monstera Adansonii is a versatile plant that can adapt to various indoor environments. Its unique foliage, climbing habit, and relatively easy care make it a popular choice for beginners and experienced plant enthusiasts alike.

Why Soil is important to Plants

Soil plays a crucial role in the health of our plants. It’s like a living ecosystem that provides essential support and essential nutrients for plant growth development and long term health of your plants.

Here are some key ways soil contributes to plant health:

Physical support: The roots of a plant anchor it to the ground, allowing it to stand tall and resist wind and rain. Soil particles act like tiny building blocks, creating a structure that holds the plant upright and prevents it from toppling over.

Water storage: Soil acts like a sponge, soaking up water and releasing it slowly to the plant’s roots. This is vital for plant survival, especially during dry periods.

Nutrient reservoir: Soil is rich in nutrients, like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which are essential for plant growth and metabolism. These nutrients are absorbed by the roots and transported throughout the plant. Making sure your houseplant soil is rich in nutrients is key to good growth.

Beneficial organisms: Soil teems with tiny creatures, fungi, and bacteria. These organisms decompose organic matter, releasing nutrients for plants and improving soil aeration and drainage.

Soil pH: The pH level of the soil indicates its acidity or alkalinity. Different plants thrive in specific pH ranges. Soil pH can affect nutrient availability and the activity of beneficial organisms.

Having healthy soil leads to healthy plants. Poor-quality soil, on the other hand, can hinder plant growth and make them more susceptible to diseases and pests.

By understanding how soil works, we can better care for our plants.

Monstera Adansonii Soil Recipe

Key characteristics of good soil:

Well-draining: Monsteras hate soggy roots, so drainage is key.
Airflow: The roots need air to breathe, so avoid dense, compacted soils.
Nutrient-rich: Provide enough nutrients for healthy growth, but not too much to burn the roots.

Soil Recipe

DIY Mix: You can create your own mix by combining ingredients like:
- Peat moss or coco coir: Holds moisture but can become soggy if not mixed with other elements.
- Perlite or pumice: Improves drainage and aeration.
- Orchid bark: Adds structure and air pockets, and slowly decomposes to release nutrients.
- Charcoal: Improves drainage and prevents fungal growth.

Proportions:

A good starting point is a ratio of 1 part potting mix to 1 part perlite or orchid bark.
You can adjust based on your plant’s needs and your growing environment.
If your Monstera is prone to drooping leaves, add more perlite for drainage.
If the leaves are browning or curling at the edges, try adding more peat moss or coco coir for moisture retention.

Additional tips:

Use fresh, high-quality ingredients.
Avoid reusing soil from sick plants.
Top-dress with compost or worm castings every few months for added nutrients.
Repot your Monstera when the roots start circling the pot or it outgrows its current container.

Remember, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer when it comes to the perfect Monstera Adansonii soil mix. The best you can do is observe your plant and adjust the proportions as needed to find the sweet spot for optimal growth.

Common Houseplant Soil Issues

Overwatering:

Signs: Soft, mushy leaves, wilting despite seemingly moist soil, yellow leaves or dropping leaves, root rot.

Cause: Excessive watering that doesn’t allow the soil to dry out between waterings, leading to waterlogged roots and oxygen deprivation.
Fix: Reduce watering frequency significantly. Allow the top inch of soil to dry completely before watering again. Check for drainage holes and ensure they’re not clogged. Repot in fresh, well-draining soil if root rot is present.

Underwatering:

Signs: Dry, crispy leaves, wilting, slowed growth, stunted development, leaf drop.

Cause: Not enough water reaching the roots, leading to dehydration and stress.
Fix: Increase watering frequency, but avoid overwatering. Check soil moisture regularly and water when the top inch feels dry. Adjust watering based on the plant’s individual needs and pot size.

Compacted soil:

Signs: Poor drainage, water pooling on the surface, stunted growth, difficulty inserting a finger into the soil.

Cause: Over time, soil particles can pack together, reducing air pockets and hindering drainage and root growth.
Fix: Gently loosen the top layers of soil with a fork or chopstick providing good aeration. Repot in fresh, well-draining soil if compaction is severe.

Nutrient deficiency:

Signs: Pale leaves, slow growth, stunted development, yellowing between leaf veins.

Cause: Lack of essential nutrients in the soil due to infrequent fertilization or using spent soil.
Fix: Fertilize regularly during the growing season (usually spring and summer) with a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength. Choose fertilizers specific to your plant’s type. Consider repotting in fresh soil if deficiency persists.

Learn how to properly Fertilizer your Monstera Adansonii Here!

Incorrect soil pH:

Signs: Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, leaf curling or dropping, poor overall health.

Cause: Some plants thrive in acidic or alkaline soil, while others prefer neutral pH. Planting in the wrong type can lead to nutrient lockout.
Fix: Choose a potting mix formulated for your plant’s preferred pH range or use our soil recipe above and amend based on your plants needs. If repotting, amend the soil with acidic or alkaline components like peat moss or lime to adjust the pH.

Remember, prevention is key! Use well-draining soil, and water appropriately, and fertilize regularly to avoid these common issues. By understanding the signs and taking action, you can keep your houseplants happy and healthy, ensuring they continue to thrive in your home.

How to Re Pot Your Monstera Adansonii

Gather your supplies:

New pot: Choose a pot with drainage holes that’s 2-4 inches larger in diameter than your current pot. Terracotta or ceramic pots are breathable and recommended.
Fresh potting mix: DIY with our soil recipe above or buy a potting mix and add in perlite, orchid bark, and charcoal.
Watering can
Moss pole (optional): If you want your Monstera to climb, you’ll need a moss pole and some zip ties or string.
Pruning shears (optional): If your Monstera is leggy, you can prune some stems before repotting.

Here’s how to pot it up:

Prepare the new pot: Add a layer of fresh potting mix to the bottom of the new pot, enough to raise the root ball slightly above the rim.
Remove the Monstera from its old pot: Gently tip the pot upside down and tap the bottom to loosen the soil. Slide the plant out, holding the base of the stem.
Inspect the roots: Remove any dead or rotten roots with your fingers or pruning shears. If the roots are tightly circling the pot, gently loosen them with your fingers.
Position the Monstera: Place the Monstera in the new pot, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the pot rim. Fill the gaps around the root ball with fresh potting mix, firming it gently as you go.
Water thoroughly: Give your Monstera a good drink, soaking the soil until water runs out the drainage holes.
Add a moss pole (optional): If you’re using a moss pole, push it into the soil near the base of the Monstera. Secure the aerial roots to the pole with zip ties or string.
Place it in its new home: Choose a location with bright, indirect sunlight and moderate humidity.

How to Grow Your Monstera Adansonii | Plant Care Tips

Growing a Monstera Adansonii, also known as the Swiss Cheese Plant, is a breeze! This easy-going houseplant thrives with minimal fuss and rewards you with lush, fenestrated foliage.

Light:

Monsteras prefer bright, indirect sunlight. Too much direct sunlight can scorch the leaves, while too little can make them leggy.
East or west-facing windows are ideal. If you have a south-facing window, provide some shade during peak sun hours.
Rotate your plant regularly for even growth and prevent leaning.

Water:

Monsteras hate soggy roots, so avoid overwatering which can cause root rot. Let the top inch of soil dry between watering’s.
In the winter, reduce watering frequency due to slower growth.
Signs of overwatering: yellowing leaves, drooping stems, mushy soil.
Signs of underwatering: wilting leaves, dry crispy edges, brown leaf tips.

Humidity:

While Monsteras adapt to average room humidity, they thrive in higher levels (50-60%).
Use a humidifier, pebble tray, or group plants to boost humidity.
Misting the leaves is fine, but avoid overdoing it.

Nutrients:

Feed your Monstera once a month during spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half-strength.
Dilute your fertilizer down even farther during the winter months when plant growth slows down
Signs of nutrient deficiency: pale leaves, slow growth, stunted development.

Climbing:

Monsteras are natural climbers! Provide a moss pole, trellis, or other support structure for the aerial roots to attach to.
This encourages bushier growth and prevents legginess.
You can also prune long stems to promote branching and a fuller appearance.

Both trailing and growing your Monstera Adansonii on a moss pole have their own pros and cons, and the best choice for you will depend on your individual preferences and desired aesthetic.

Here’s our breakdown to help you decide:

Growing on a moss pole:

Pros:

Encourages climbing habit: This is the natural growth habit of Monsteras, promoting bushier and more compact growth.
Larger leaves with more fenestrations: Climbing Monsteras tend to produce bigger leaves with more pronounced holes, giving them a fuller and more dramatic look.
Utilizes vertical space: Saves horizontal space and allows the plant to grow upwards, especially beneficial for smaller areas.
Aids in aerial root development: Provides a natural surface for the roots to attach and climb, offering additional support and nutrient uptake.

Cons:

Requires maintenance: Moss poles need regular misting and occasional replacement as they degrade.
Can be tippy: Heavy vines on a tall moss pole can make the plant top-heavy and prone to tipping. Securing it to the pole or a support structure is necessary.
Less cascading effect: You won’t get the flowing, trailing vines that some find appealing.

Letting it trail:

Pros:

Low maintenance: No need for an additional moss pole, making it a simpler setup.
Natural cascading effect: This creates a lush, waterfall-like look, adding a touch of softness and movement to your space.
More forgiving for beginners: Less risk of overwatering or improper care compared to a moss pole.

Cons:

Smaller leaves with fewer fenestrations: Trailing Monsteras tend to have smaller leaves with fewer holes due to less light exposure on lower stems.
Sprawl and leggy growth: The vine can become long and straggly without support, taking up more horizontal space.
Root damage: Aerial roots searching for support can easily dry out or damage furniture.

The choice is yours! Consider your needs:

Do you want a bushier plant with large, fenestrated leaves? Opt for a moss pole.
Do you prefer a flowing, cascading effect with minimal fuss? Let it trail.
Limited space? A moss pole might be more space-efficient.
New to plant care? Trailing might be easier to manage.

You can even experiment! Start with a moss pole for bushier growth and then let some stems trail down for a mixed look. Observe your plant and adjust your approach as needed.

Temperature:

Maintain room temperature (65-75°F) for optimal growth.
Monsteras can tolerate cooler temperatures (down to 55°F), but avoid freezing conditions.

Pests and diseases:

Monsteras are generally resistant to pests and diseases. However, watch out for mealybugs, spider mites, and fungal infections.
Treat any issues promptly with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or fungicide.

The Monstera Adansonii is a beautiful plant that if you plant it in the proper soil mix and take good care of it, will reward you with tons of growth and beautiful leaves! It’s one of many easygoing indoor plants that are perfect for new plant parents.

How to propagate Raindrop Peperomia Guide & Easy Care Tips!

December 2, 2023 Leave a Comment

Peperomia Raindrop, also known as peperomia Polybotrya, is a popular houseplant known for its unique glossy raindrop-shaped leaves. The plant is native to South America and grows well in tropical climates. Peperomia raindrop plants are relatively easy to care for and are a good choice for beginners. What many may not know is that you can propagate Raindrop Peperomia pretty easily!

Many people confuse Raindrop peperomia with Pilea Peperomioides, also known as the Chinese Money Plant. While both the Peperomia Raindrop and Chinese Money Plant (Pilea Peperomioides) are popular tropical plants with similar care requirements and looks, they do have distinct characteristics that set them apart from each other.

Peperomia Raindrop vs Pilea Peperomioides

Peperomia Raindrop (Peperomia Polybotrya):

Leaves: Teardrop-shaped, fleshy leaves with a glossy sheen
Growth Habit: Compact and upright growth pattern
Flowering: Produces small, inconspicuous flowers in spikes
Propagation: Easily propagated from stem cuttings

Chinese Money Plant (Pilea Peperomioides):

Leaves: Rounded, coin-shaped leaves with a smooth texture
Growth Habit: Low-growing, spreading habit
Flowering: Produces small, white flowers in clusters
Propagation: Easily propagated from stem cuttings or division

Comparison Table:

Feature	Peperomia raindrop	Chinese money plant
Leaf Shape	Teardrop	Rounded
Leaf Texture	Glossier	Smoother
Growth Habit	Upright	Spreading
Flowering	Inconspicuous	White clusters
Propagation	Stem cuttings	Stem cuttings or division

Peperomia Raindrop and Chinese Money plant are beautiful and easy-to-care-for houseplants they make wonderful additions to any home. The choice between the two ultimately depends on your personal preference and the specific characteristics you desire in a houseplant.

Let’s take a deeper look at the distinctive characteristics of the Peperomia Raindrop plant:

Foliage:

Shape: The most striking feature of the Peperomia raindrop is its teardrop-shaped leaves, resembling raindrops glistening on a leaf surface.
Texture: The leaves are relatively thick and fleshy, giving them a plump and substantial appearance.
Color: The leaves are typically a deep shade of green, ranging from emerald to olive hues.
Surface: The leaves boast a glossy sheen that enhances their visual appeal and contributes to their raindrop-like appearance.

Growth Habit:

Compact: The Peperomia raindrop maintains a compact and manageable size, making it ideal for indoor spaces and tabletops.
Upright: The plant typically grows in an upright, bushy manner, with its stems supporting the cascading foliage.
Non-invasive: Unlike some houseplants that tend to spread aggressively, the Peperomia raindrop remains well-behaved and doesn’t overwhelm its surroundings.

Now let’s dive into propagation and what it means

What is propagation?

Plant propagation is the process of creating new plants from a single parent plant. This can be done through a variety of methods, including sexual and asexual propagation. Sexual propagation involves the production of seeds, while asexual propagation involves taking a part of one parent plant and causing it to regenerate itself into a new plant.

Sexual propagation is the most common method of plant propagation in nature. It involves the union of male and female gametes to produce a zygote, which develops into a seed. The seed contains an embryo, which is a miniature plant that has all of the necessary organs to develop into a new plant. Seeds are dispersed by wind, water, or animals, and they can germinate in a variety of conditions. Many of us house plant collectors are not using sexual propagation as a means of creating more plants. However, there are some who are able to are able to complete this sometimes difficult task and those people are my idols.

Asexual propagation is a more controlled method of plant propagation. It involves taking a part of one parent plant, such as a stem, leaf, or root, and causing it to regenerate itself into a new plant. This process is called regeneration, and it is based on the plant’s ability to produce new cells from specialized cells called meristems.

There are many different methods of asexual propagation, including:

Stem cuttings: Stem cuttings are made by taking a piece of stem from a parent plant and rooting it in water or moist soil. This is a common method of propagation for many houseplants.
Root division: Root division is a method of propagation that is used for plants that have multiple crowns or suckers. The plant is dug up and divided into two or more sections, each with its own root system.
Grafting: Grafting is a method of propagation that is used to combine two different plants into one. A piece of stem from one plant called the scion, is grafted onto the rootstock of another plant.
Air layering: This method is a bit more complex than the others, but it can be used to propagate plants that are difficult to root from cuttings. To air-layer a plant, you will need to create a small incision in the stem and then wrap it in moist moss. After a few weeks, roots will develop at the incision, and you can then cut the stem and plant the new plant in soil.
Tissue culture: This method is the most advanced and is typically only used by professionals. Tissue culture involves taking a small piece of plant tissue and growing it in a sterile laboratory environment. This method is used to produce large numbers of plants quickly and efficiently.

The best way to Propagate Peperomia Raindrop in my opinion is by stem cutting then rooting in soil propagation or water propagation. Here’s how to do both easily.

Propagate Raindrop Peperomia in Water

Propagating Peperomia raindrop in water is a straightforward process that can be done with very little supplies.

Materials Needed:

Healthy Peperomia Raindrop plant
Sharp knife or pruning shears
Clear glass jar or plastic container
Room-temperature water

Step-by-Step Instructions:

Select a healthy stem: Choose a healthy, non-flowering stem from your Peperomia raindrop plant. The stem should be at least 3-4 inches long and have several nodes, the points where leaves grow from the stem.
Make a clean cut: Use a sharp knife or pruning shears to make a clean cut just below a node. Remove any leaves from the bottom 1-2 inches of the stem.
Prepare the rooting container: Choose a clear glass or plastic container that allows you to see the roots developing. Fill the container with room-temperature water.
Place the stem in water: Insert the cut end of the stem into the jar of water, ensuring that at least one node is submerged.
Position in a bright location: Place the container in a bright location with indirect sunlight. Avoid direct sunlight, which can scorch the stem. I put my cuttings in my kitchen windows.
Change the water regularly: Change the water every 2-3 days to keep it fresh and prevent the growth of bacteria.
Monitor root development: Keep an eye on the stem and look for signs of root growth or stem rot. New roots typically start to appear within 2-3 weeks.
Roots: Once the roots are about 1-2 inches long, you can transfer the cutting to a pot with a well-draining potting mix.

Additional Tips:

Use a rooting hormone (optional): Dipping the cut end of the stem in a rooting hormone can encourage faster root development.
Increase humidity (optional): Placing a plastic bag over the container can help to increase humidity and create a favorable environment for root growth.
Be patient: The rooting process can take several weeks, so be patient and allow the plant to develop roots at its own pace.

Propagate Raindrop Peperomia in soil

Propagating Peperomia raindrop in soil is a simple way to propagate! Make sure you use a good well draining soil and keep an eye out for stem root.

Materials Needed:

Healthy Peperomia raindrop plant
Sharp knife or pruning shears
Well-draining soil
Small pot with drainage holes
Room-temperature water

Step-by-Step Instructions:

Select a healthy stem: Choose a healthy stem from your Peperomia raindrop plant. The stem should be at least 3-4 inches long and have several nodes, the points where leaves grow from the stem. Cut off lower leaves and keep 2-3 mature leaves at the top of the cutting
Make a clean cut: Use a sharp clean knife or pruning shears to make a clean cut just below a node. Remove any leaves from the bottom 1-2 inches of the stem.
Prepare the potting mix: Fill the small pot with well-draining potting mix. Make sure the potting mix is moist but not soggy.
Dip the stem in rooting hormone (optional): While not essential, dipping the cut end of the stem in a rooting hormone can encourage faster root development.
Plant the stem: Insert the cut end of the stem into fresh soil mix, ensuring that at least one node is buried. Firm the potting mix around the base of the stem.
Water the cutting: Give the cutting a thorough watering to settle the potting mix and provide initial moisture.
Position in a bright location: Place the pot in a bright location with indirect sunlight. Avoid direct sunlight, which can scorch the stem.
Maintain humidity: To maintain humidity, consider placing a plastic bag over the pot or using a humidity dome. This will help prevent the leaves from drying out and promote root growth.
Monitor root development: After a few weeks, gently tug on the stem to check for root development. If there is resistance, the cutting is likely rooted and can be treated like a mature Peperomia raindrop plant. You will soon begin to see new growth on your plant.

Additional Tips:

Provide warmth: Peperomia raindrop prefers warm temperatures, so keep the cutting in a location with a consistent temperature between 65-80°F (18-27°C).

Leaf Propagate Raindrop Peperomia

When you Propagate Raindrop Peperomia from leaf cuttings just know it may take slightly longer than stem cuttings, leaf cuttings are a fun way produce new plants.

Materials Needed:

Healthy Peperomia raindrop plant
Sharp knife or pruning shears
Well-draining potting mix
Small pot with drainage holes
Clear plastic bag or humidity dome
Room-temperature water

Step-by-Step Instructions:

Select a healthy leaf: Choose a healthy, mature leaf from your Peperomia raindrop plant. The leaf should be firm and free of pests or diseases.
Cut the leaf: Use a sharp knife or pruning shears to make a clean cut at the base of the leaf petiole, the stalk that attaches the leaf to the stem.
Remove any extra petiole: Trim off any excess petiole, leaving about 1/4 inch remaining.
Prepare the potting mix: Fill the small pot with well-draining potting mix. Make sure the potting mix is moist but not soggy.
Lay the leaf on the potting mix: Place the cut end of the leaf petiole flat on the surface of the potting mix. Do not bury the petiole in the soil.
Cover the pot: To maintain humidity, cover the pot with a clear plastic bag or use a humidity dome. This will help prevent the leaf from drying out and promote root development.
Position in a bright location: Place the pot in a bright location with indirect sunlight. Avoid direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaf.
Monitor root development and humidity: Check the pot regularly for signs of root growth. It may take several weeks for roots to form. Gently mist the leaf occasionally to keep it moist.
Pot up the new plant: Once roots have developed, you can carefully transfer the leaf cutting to a new pot with a well-draining potting mix. Bury the petiole about 1/2 inch deep in the potting mix.

Propagation Problems

1. Stem cuttings not rooting

Possible causes:
- Not enough humidity: Cuttings need high humidity to root properly. You can increase humidity by placing a plastic bag over the pot or by misting the cutting regularly.
- Not enough light: Cuttings need bright, indirect light to root. Avoid placing them in direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaves.
- Overwatering or underwatering: Overwatering a soil propagated plant can cause the stem to rot. Underwatering can prevent the stem from absorbing enough water to root. Water the cutting when the soil feels dry to the touch.
- Using the wrong potting mix: Use a well-draining potting mix

2. Leaf cuttings not rooting

Possible causes:
- Not enough humidity: Leaf cuttings need even more humidity than stem cuttings. You can place the cutting in a terrarium or use a humidity dome.
- Not enough light: Leaf cuttings need bright, indirect light to root. Avoid placing them in direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaves.
- Underwatering: Leaf cuttings need to be kept moist at all times. Water the cutting when the soil feels slightly damp to the touch.
- Not enough node: Some leaf cuttings need to have a node to root. A node is the point where a leaf grows from the stem.

3. Rotting cuttings

Possible causes:
- Overwatering: Overwatering is the most common cause of rotting cuttings. Water the cutting only when the soil feels dry to the touch.
- Using the wrong potting mix: Use a well-draining potting mix
- Not enough air circulation: Place the cutting in a pot with drainage holes and avoid placing it in a closed container that does not allow air circulation.
- Change water: When rooting cutting in water it’s important to change out the water ever few days.

4. Pests and diseases

Possible causes:
- Using dirty tools: Always use clean, sanitized tools when taking cuttings. You can spread diseases between plants.
- Propagating from a diseased plant: Avoid propagating from plants that are showing signs of pests or diseases.
- Overcrowding: Overcrowding cuttings in the same pot can increase the risk of pests and diseases. Make sure your cuttings have enough space to breathe.

How to Grow Raindrop Peperomia Plants

Light

Peperomia raindrop plants need bright, indirect light to grow their best. They prefer to be placed near a window that receives plenty of natural light, but it’s important to avoid direct sunlight on your foliage. Direct sun without transitioning can burn the leaves and it’s very difficult for plants to recover when they’ve been burnt.

Ideal locations for Peperomia raindrop plants include east-facing or north-facing windows. If your home doesn’t have windows that receive enough natural light, you can supplement with a grow light. There are many low cost grow lights on the market right now so finding one should be pretty easy.

Light intensity: Peperomia plants prefer bright, indirect light. This means that they should receive plenty of light, but it should be filtered or diffused to avoid being too harsh.
Light duration: Peperomia plants need at least 6-8 hours of light per day. If they don’t get enough light, their leaves will start to turn pale and droopy.
Light quality: Peperomia plants prefer full-spectrum light, which is the type of light that plants need to photosynthesize efficiently. If you’re using a grow light, make sure that it emits full-spectrum light.

Here are some important signs that your Peperomia Raindrop plant is not getting enough light:

Pale leaves: If the leaves of your Peperomia Raindrop plant are pale or yellowish, it’s a sign that it’s not getting enough light.
Drooping leaves: If the leaves of your Peperomia raindrop plant are drooping, it’s another sign that it’s not getting enough light.
Slow growth: If your Peperomia raindrop plant is growing slowly, it’s a sign that it’s not getting enough light.
Leggy Growth: If your plant is looking tall and lanky it’s likely stretching for light.

If you notice any of these signs, you should move your plant to a location that receives more light.

Water

Peperomia Raindrop plants are relatively low-maintenance, but they do require proper watering to thrive.

Allow the soil to dry out slightly between watering’s: It’s important to allow the soil to dry out slightly between watering’s. Too much water can cause root rot. However, don’t let the soil dry out completely, as this can stress the plant.
Consider bottom watering: Bottom watering is a good way to ensure that your Peperomia raindrop plant gets a thorough watering without getting water on the leaves. To bottom water, simply place the pot in a shallow dish of water and allow the soil to absorb the water from the bottom.
Adjust the watering frequency based on the season and your plant’s needs: Peperomia raindrop plants will need less water during the winter when they are dormant. You may also need to adjust the watering frequency based on the humidity levels in your home.
Monitor your plant for signs of overwatering or underwatering: Overwatered plants will have droopy, yellow leaves. Underwatered plants will have dry, crispy leaves. If you notice any of these signs, adjust your watering frequency accordingly.

Soil Mix

Here are some tips for selecting the best soil mix for your Peperomia Raindrop plant:

Choose a well-draining potting mix: Peperomia raindrop plants are susceptible to root rot if they are kept in waterlogged soil. Therefore, it’s essential to use a well-draining potting mix that will allow excess water to drain away freely. A good potting mix for Peperomia raindrop plants is a combination of peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite.
Consider adding orchid bark or coco coir: Orchid bark and coco coir are both excellent additions to potting mixes for Peperomia raindrop plants. They help to further improve drainage and aeration, which is essential for healthy root growth.

Make your Own Soil Mix:

If you prefer to make your own potting mix, you can combine the following ingredients:

2 parts peat moss

1 part perlite

1 part vermiculite

Fertilize Raindrop Peperomia

Choose a balanced fertilizer: Peperomia raindrop plants prefer a balanced fertilizer with an equal ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK). A 20-20-20 fertilizer is a good option.
Dilute the fertilizer to half strength: Before using the fertilizer, dilute it to half strength with water. This will help to prevent fertilizer burn.
Fertilize during the growing season: Peperomia raindrop plants are actively growing from spring to fall. Fertilize your plant once a month during this time and less during the winter months.
Water the plant thoroughly before fertilizing: This will help to distribute the fertilizer evenly and prevent it from burning the roots.
Apply the fertilizer to the soil: Do not apply the fertilizer to the leaves of the plant.
Rinse off any excess fertilizer: After applying the fertilizer, rinse off any excess that may have gotten on the leaves of the plant.
Avoid overfertilizing: Overfertilizing can damage the roots of your Peperomia raindrop plant. Only fertilize your plant once a month during the growing season.

Here are some additional tips for fertilizing your Peperomia raindrop plant:

Do not fertilize your plant as often during the winter: Peperomia raindrop plants are dormant during the winter months and do not need a lot of fertilizer.
If you notice any signs of fertilizer burn, such as yellowing or browning of the leaves, stop fertilizing your plant and flush the soil with water.

Liquid Fertilizer Vs Granular Fertilizer

Peperomia raindrop plants generally prefer liquid fertilizer over granular fertilizer. This is because liquid fertilizer is more readily absorbed by the roots, making it more effective for these plants. Granular fertilizer, on the other hand, needs to be dissolved in water before it can be absorbed by the roots, and this process can take longer, especially for plants with slow-growing roots like Peperomia raindrop.

Check out this handy table with the key differences between liquid and granular fertilizers for Peperomia raindrop:

Feature	Liquid Fertilizer	Granular Fertilizer
Absorption rate	Faster absorption	Slower absorption
Nutrient availability	Nutrients are readily available	Nutrients need to be dissolved in water first
Application method	Watered into the soil	Spread onto the soil surface
Risk of overfertilization	Lower risk	Higher risk

Overall, liquid fertilizer is a more convenient and effective option for Peperomia raindrop plants. It is easier to apply, provides nutrients more quickly, and has a lower risk of overfertilization.

The Perfect Pot for Raindrop Peperomia

The best type of pot for a Peperomia raindrop plant is one that has a drainage hole and is made of a material that allows air circulation.

Terracotta: Terracotta is a porous material that allows air and water to pass through easily, which is essential for healthy root growth. Terracotta pots can also help to prevent root rot by drying out quickly after watering.
Unglazed ceramic: Unglazed ceramic pots are another good option for Peperomia raindrop plants. They are similar to terracotta pots in that they allow air and water to pass through, but they are less likely to crack or chip.
Glazed ceramic: Glazed ceramic pots can be a good option if you want a more decorative pot. However, it is important to make sure that the pot has drainage holes to allow excess water to escape.
Plastic: Plastic pots are also a good option, but they can be less breathable than terracotta or ceramic pots. If you use a plastic pot, make sure that it has drainage holes and that you don’t overwater the plant.

No matter what type of pot you choose, it is important to make sure that it is the right size for your Peperomia raindrop plant. The pot should be slightly larger than the root ball of the plant, but not so large that the soil dries out too quickly.

Common Peperomia Issues to look out for

Peperomia plants are generally known for being relatively low-maintenance and pest-resistant. However, they are still susceptible to a few common pests and diseases. Here are some of the most common peperomia pests and issues to look out for:

Pests:

Mealy bugs: Mealybugs are small, white insects that look like cotton balls. They feed on the sap of plants, which can cause them to become stunted and weak. Mealybugs can be controlled by rubbing them off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or by using a commercial insecticidal soap.
Spider mites: Spider mites are tiny, eight-legged creatures that feed on the leaves of plants. They can cause the leaves to become yellow or brown and can also cause them to drop off. Spider mites can be controlled by increasing the humidity around the plant or by using a commercial insecticidal soap.
Thrips: Thrips are tiny, slender insects that feed on the sap of plants. They can cause the leaves to become discolored and can also make them feel sticky. Thrips can be controlled by using a commercial insecticidal soap or by spraying the plant with a solution of neem oil.

Diseases:

Root rot: Root rot is a fungal disease that affects the roots of plants. It is caused by overwatering or by using a potting mix that is not well-draining. Root rot can cause the leaves to become yellow or brown and can also cause them to drop off. Root rot can be controlled by using a well-draining potting mix and by watering the plant only when the soil feels dry to the touch.
Fungal leaf spot: Fungal leaf spot is a fungal disease that causes brown spots to appear on the leaves of plants. It is caused by high humidity and poor air circulation. Fungal leaf spot can be controlled by increasing the air circulation around the plant and by avoiding overwatering.
Powdery mildew: Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that causes a white powdery coating to appear on the leaves of plants. It is caused by high humidity and poor air circulation. Powdery mildew can be controlled by increasing the air circulation around the plant and by using a commercial fungicide.

Now that you know how to grow and propagate Raindrop Peperomia you are ready to get started!

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Happy Propagating!

How to Propagate Begonia Maculata

November 27, 2023 Leave a Comment

The Begonia Maculata, also known as the polka dot begonia or angel wing begonia, is a species native to southeast Brazil. It is so popular because of its striking foliage, which features dark green leaves with silver spots and red undersides. Begonia Maculata is a relatively easy-care houseplant, but it does have some specific requirements you should know about for growing and propagating. By the time you finish this post you will know exactly how to propagate Begonia Maculata and grow it into a healthy plant.

4 Ways to Propagate Begonia Maculata

What is Propagation?

Propagation in houseplants is the process of creating new plants from existing plants. It is a great way to increase your plant collection, share plants with friends and family, or save a plant that is struggling. There are many different ways to propagate houseplants, but the most common methods are stem cuttings, leaf cuttings, and division.

Stem cuttings are the easiest way to propagate most houseplants. To take a stem cutting, simply cut a piece of healthy stem from the plant, at least 4 inches long and with at least two leaf nodes. Make a clean cut at a 45-degree angle just below a leaf node. Remove any lower leaves from the cutting, and then dip the cut end in rooting hormone powder (optional). Plant the cutting in a small pot with a well-draining potting mix. Water the potting mix thoroughly and place the pot in a warm, bright spot, but out of direct sunlight. Keep the potting mix moist, but not soggy. Within a few weeks, you should start to see roots developing from the cut end of the stem. Once the roots are at least 2 inches long, you can transplant the cutting into a larger pot.

Leaf cuttings can be used to propagate some types of houseplants, such as begonias, African violets, and peperomias. To take a leaf cutting, simply cut a healthy leaf from the plant, at least 4 inches long and with at least two veins. Make a clean cut at a 45-degree angle across the veins. Allow the cut end to callous over for a few hours. Then, dip the cut end in rooting hormone powder (optional) and plant it in a small pot with a well-draining potting mix. Water the potting mix thoroughly and place the pot in a warm, bright spot, but out of direct sunlight. Keep the potting mix moist, but not soggy. Within a few weeks, you should start to see new growth emerging from the cut end of the leaf. Once the new growth is at least 2 inches tall, you can transplant the begonia maculata plant into a larger pot.

Air Layering is a good way to propagate cane begonias that have become too tall and wild. To air layer your begonia make a small cut below a node. Then wrap the cut area with moist sphagnum moss. Cover the moss with plastic wrap. Monitor the propagation process by looking for roots and keep the moss moist by misting regularly. When you seed roots you can cut the stem from the plant and pot it up.

No matter which propagation method you choose, there are a few things you can do to increase your chances of success:

Use sharp, clean tools to make your cuts. This will help to prevent the spread of disease.
Use a well-draining potting mix. This will help to prevent the roots from rotting.
Keep the potting mix moist, but not soggy. Most plants need to be watered regularly, but they should not be sitting in water.
Place the propagated plants in a warm, bright spot, but out of direct sunlight. Direct sunlight can scorch the leaves of new plants.
Be patient! It can take several weeks or even months for new plants to develop from cuttings or divisions.

Propagation is a fun and rewarding way to increase your plant collection and create new plants to share with others. Read more to learn even more about how to propagate Begonia Maculata.

When to propagate Begonia Maculata

The best time to propagate Begonia Maculata plants is in the spring or summer, during the growing season. This is when your plant is actively growing and has the most energy to produce new roots. However, Begonia Maculata can be propagated at any time of year, as long as you provide it with the proper conditions.

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How to propagate Begonia Maculata in Soil:

Materials:

Sharp scissors or pruning shears
Rooting hormone (optional)
Well-draining potting mix
Small pots or containers
Humidity dome or plastic bag (optional)

Instructions:

Select a healthy stem cutting. Choose a stem that is about 4-6 inches long and has at least two nodes (the points where leaves grow from the stem).
Make a clean cut below a node. Use sharp scissors or pruning shears to make a clean cut at an angle just below a node.
Remove the lower leaves. Remove the leaves that will be submerged in water to prevent them from rotting.
Dip the cutting into rooting hormone (optional). Rooting hormone can help to promote root growth, but it is not essential. If you are using rooting hormone, dip the cut end of the stem into the hormone powder.
Pot Plant In Well-draining Soil Mix. Use a good potting soil mix of 2 parts coco coir, 1 part perlite, and 1 part pine bark or you can buy a well-draining mix.
Place the plant in a bright location. Choose a location that receives bright, indirect light. Avoid placing the plant in direct sunlight, as this can scorch the leaves.

Keep the soil moist. Keep the soil moist while the plant is rooting.

Wait for roots to develop. It will take several weeks for roots to develop. Be patient and do not disturb the cutting too much.

Care for the newly potted cutting. Water the newly potted cutting regularly and keep it in a bright, indirect location. You can also place a humidity dome or plastic bag over the pot to increase humidity.

How to propagate Begonia Maculata by Air Layering

Air layering is a propagation technique that involves inducing roots to grow on a stem while it is still attached to the parent plant. This method is particularly useful to propagate Begonia Maculata, as it allows you to create new plants without having to take cuttings.

Materials:

A healthy Begonia Maculata plant
Sharp knife or pruning shears
Sphagnum moss
Plastic wrap or aluminum foil
Rubber bands or string
Small pot or container with drainage holes
Soil Mix with good drainage
Watering can or spray bottle

Instructions:

Select a healthy stem: Choose a stem that is about 4-6 inches long and has at least two nodes (the points where leaves grow from the stem).
Make an incision below a node: Use a sharp knife or pruning shears to make a clean, shallow incision just below a node.
Prepare the sphagnum moss: Moisten the sphagnum moss until it is evenly damp but not soggy.
Wrap the incision with moss: Wrap the incision with a small amount of damp sphagnum moss.
Secure the moss: Secure the moss in place with plastic wrap or aluminum foil, wrapping it tightly around the stem and moss.
Moisturize the moss: Keep the moss moist by misting it regularly.
Monitor root development: Check for root development by gently squeezing the moss. If you feel roots forming, you can carefully remove the plastic wrap or aluminum foil to check visually.
Once roots are established: Once the roots are about 1-2 inches long, you can sever the stem below the moss and pot up the new plant in a well-draining potting mix.

Tips:

Use a clean knife or pruning shears to prevent the spread of diseases.
Keep the moss moist but not soggy to prevent root rot.

How to propagate Begonia Maculata in water, follow these steps:

Choose a healthy stem from your Begonia Maculata plant. It should be at least 4 inches long and have at least two leaf nodes.
Make a clean cut at a 45-degree angle below a leaf node.
Remove any lower leaves from the cutting.
Place the cutting in a clean glass or jar of water. Make sure that the cut stem is submerged in the water, but the leaves are not.
Place the glass or jar in a warm, bright spot, but out of direct sunlight.
Change the water every 2-3 days.
Within a few weeks, you should start to see roots growing from the cut stem.
Once the roots are at least 2 inches long, you can transplant the Begonia Maculata cutting into a pot with moist soil.

Tips for propagating Begonia Maculata in water:

Keep the water level consistent. The cut stem should always be submerged in the water, but the leaves should not be.
Place the glass or jar in a warm, bright spot, but out of direct sunlight. Direct sunlight can scorch the leaves.
Change the water every 2-3 days to prevent bacteria from growing.
It can take several weeks for roots to develop.

Once the Begonia Maculata cutting has developed strong roots, you can transplant it into a pot with soil. Use a well-draining potting mix and plant the cutting at the same depth that it was growing in the water. Water the plant thoroughly and place it in a bright, indirect light spot.

With proper care, your Begonia Maculata cutting should thrive and grow into a new plant.

How To propagate Begonia Maculata from leaf cuttings, follow these steps:

Choose a healthy leaf from your Begonia Maculata plant. It should be at least 4 inches long and have at least two veins.
Make a clean cut at a 45-degree angle across the veins.
Allow the cut end to callous over for a few hours.
Fill a small pot with a well-draining potting mix.
Dip the cut end of the leaf in rooting hormone powder (optional).
Plant the leaf in the potting mix, with the cut end facing down.
Water the potting mix thoroughly.
Place the pot in a warm, bright spot, but out of direct sunlight.
Keep the potting mix moist, but not soggy.
Within a few weeks, you should start to see new growth emerging from the cut end of the leaf.
Once the new growth is at least 2 inches tall, you can transplant the Begonia Maculata plant into a larger pot.

Here are some additional tips for growing Begonia Maculata from a leaf:

Place the pot in a warm, bright spot, but out of direct sunlight. Begonias need bright light, but they should not be placed in direct sunlight, as this can scorch their leaves.
It can take several weeks or even months for new growth to emerge from the the leaf.

Once the Begonia Maculata plant has developed strong roots and new growth, you can transplant it into a larger pot. Use a well-draining potting mix and plant the begonia at the same depth that it was growing in the nursery pot. Water the plant thoroughly and place it in a bright, indirect light spot.

Common Propagation Issues:

Issue: Cuttings not rooting.

Possible causes:

The cutting is not healthy or mature enough.
The cutting is not getting enough light or humidity.
The cutting is sitting in water that is too cold or too hot.
The cutting is infected with a disease or fungus.

Solutions:

Use healthy, mature cuttings for propagation.
Place the cuttings in a warm, bright spot, but out of direct sunlight.
Mist the cuttings regularly to maintain high humidity.
Use fresh, clean water when propagating in water.
Inspect the cuttings regularly for signs of disease or fungus and treat promptly if necessary.

Issue: Cuttings rotting.

Possible causes:

The cutting is sitting in water that is too deep or too cold.
The potting mix is not well-draining.
The cutting is overwatered.

Solutions:

Make sure that the water level is only covering the cut stem, not the leaves.
Use a well-draining potting mix.
Water the cuttings regularly, but be careful not to overwater them. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out between waterings.

Issue: Cuttings getting leggy.

Possible causes:

The cuttings are not getting enough light.
The cuttings are overwatered.

Solutions:

Place the cuttings in a bright, sunny spot.
Water the cuttings regularly, but be careful not to overwater them. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out between waterings.

Issue: Cuttings dying.

Possible causes:

The cuttings were not healthy or mature enough to propagate.
The cuttings were not getting enough light or humidity.
The cuttings were sitting in water that was too cold or too hot.
The cuttings were infected with a disease or fungus.
The cuttings were overwatered or underwatered.

Solutions:

Use healthy, mature cuttings for propagation.
Place the cuttings in a warm, bright spot, but out of direct sunlight.
Mist the cuttings regularly to maintain high humidity.
Use fresh, clean water when propagating in water.
Inspect the cuttings regularly for signs of disease or fungus and treat promptly if necessary.
Water the cuttings regularly, but be careful not to overwater or underwater them. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out between waterings.

Best soil Mix for Potting your Begonia Maculata:

The best soil mix for Begonia Maculata is a well-draining, aerated mix. Here are some of the components of a good soil mix for Begonia Maculata:

Coco coir: Coco coir is a sustainable alternative to peat moss, which is becoming increasingly scarce. It is made from the husk of coconuts and is a good source of organic matter.
Perlite: Perlite is a lightweight, porous material that helps to improve drainage and aeration. It also helps to prevent the soil from becoming compacted.
Pine bark: Pine bark is a good source of organic matter and helps to improve drainage and aeration. It also helps to retain moisture, which is important for Begonia Maculata.
Peat moss: Peat moss is a good source of organic matter and helps to retain moisture. However, it is becoming increasingly scarce and is not a sustainable resource.
Sand: Sand helps to improve drainage and aeration. However, it should be used in moderation, as too much sand can make the soil too dry.

Here is a recipe for a good soil mix for Begonia maculata:

2 parts coco coir
1 part perlite
1 part pine bark

You can also find pre-mixed soil mixes that will do well for Begonia maculata at most garden centers.

Here are some additional tips for choosing a soil mix for Begonia maculata:

pH: Begonia Maculata prefers a slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5. You can test your soil’s pH with a home soil testing kit.
Drainage: The soil should be well-draining to prevent waterlogging, which can lead to root rot.
Aeration: The soil should be aerated to allow air to reach the roots, which is essential for healthy growth.

Begonia Maculata Care Tips: When your Propagation has grown up

Provide bright, indirect light: Begonia maculata thrives in bright, indirect light. Avoid placing them in direct sunlight, as this can scorch their leaves. A south-facing or east-facing window is ideal. If you don’t have enough natural light, you can supplement with grow lights.
Maintain a humid environment: Begonia maculata is native to tropical rainforests and prefers a humid environment. You can increase humidity around your plant by placing it on a pebble tray filled with water, misting the leaves regularly, or using a humidifier.
Use a well-draining potting mix: Begonia maculata prefer a well-draining potting mix that allows excess water to drain away. Keeping Begonias in soggy soil will cause root rot.
Water regularly but avoid overwatering: Water your Begonia maculata when the top inch of soil is dry. Allow the water to drain completely before watering again. Overwatering can lead to root rot.
Fertilize regularly during the growing season: Fertilize your Begonia maculata every 2-4 weeks during the growing season (spring and summer) using a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half-strength.
Prune regularly to maintain shape: Prune your Begonia maculata regularly to remove any dead, diseased, or overgrown leaves. This will help to maintain the plant’s shape and encourage new growth.
Repot as needed: Repot your Begonia maculata when it outgrows its current pot. Choose a pot that is slightly larger than the current pot and use a fresh potting mix.
Be on the lookout for pests and diseases: Begonia maculata are relatively pest- and disease-resistant, but they can be susceptible to mealybugs, spider mites, and powdery mildew. If you notice any signs of pests or diseases, treat the plant immediately with an appropriate pest control or fungicide.
Enjoy your beautiful plant!: Begonia maculata are beautiful and easy-to-care-for houseplants. With proper care, they can thrive for many years to come.

How to Fertilize Begonia Maculata

Fertilizing begonias is an essential part of keeping them healthy and thriving. Begonias are heavy feeders, so they need regular fertilization to support their growth and flowering. Here is a quick guide on how to fertilize begonias:

Type of Fertilizer:

Use a balanced liquid fertilizer that is specifically formulated for flowering plants. A 20-20-20 fertilizer is a good option.

Frequency of Fertilizing:

Fertilize your begonias every 2-4 weeks during the growing season (spring and summer). Reduce fertilizing to once a month or less in the fall and winter when they are not actively growing.

Application:

Dilute the liquid fertilizer to half-strength according to the instructions on the product label. Water your begonias thoroughly before applying the fertilizer. Pour the diluted fertilizer around the base of the plant, avoiding the leaves.

Tips:

Do not over-fertilize, as this can damage the roots.
If you notice any signs of fertilizer burn, such as browning or yellowing of the leaves, flush the soil with water and reduce or discontinue fertilizing.
Begonias are sensitive to salts, so make sure to use a fertilizer that is low in salts.
You can also use a slow-release fertilizer, which will release nutrients over time and require less frequent applications.

Before you go!

Top 9 easy-to-grow cane begonias you may want to add to your collection:

Angel Wing Begonia (Begonia x corallina): This is the most popular cane begonia and is known for its beautiful, heart-shaped leaves with silver spots. It is a relatively low-maintenance plant and can tolerate a variety of conditions.
Escargot Begonia (Begonia escargot): This begonia is known for its tightly curled leaves. It is a slow-growing plant, but it is relatively easy to care for.
Begonia Silver Mist (Begonia argenteo-guttata): This begonia is known for its silvery-green leaves with dark green veins. It is a relatively low-maintenance plant and can tolerate a variety of conditions.
Begonia Rex (Begonia rex): This begonia is known for its beautiful, velvety leaves with a variety of patterns and colors. It is a bit more sensitive than other cane begonias, but it is still relatively easy to grow.
Begonia Tamaya (Begonia tamaya): This begonia is known for its large, heart-shaped leaves with silver spots. It is a relatively fast-growing plant and can tolerate a variety of conditions.
Begonia Corallina de Lucerna (Begonia corallina de lucerna): This begonia is known for its cascading stems and clusters of coral pink flowers. It is a relatively low-maintenance plant and can tolerate a variety of conditions.
Begonia Bolivia (Begonia boliviensis): This begonia is known for its cascading stems and clusters of orange flowers. It is a relatively low-maintenance plant and can tolerate a variety of conditions.
Begonia Fuchsia (Begonia fuchsioides): This begonia is known for its cascading stems and clusters of fuchsia-pink flowers. It is a relatively low-maintenance plant and can tolerate a variety of conditions.
Begonia Manicata (Begonia manicata): This begonia is known for its large, heart-shaped leaves with silver spots. It is a relatively fast-growing plant and can tolerate a variety of conditions.

Begonias are gorgeous tropical plants that can grow very well indoors. They are easy to propagate and share with friends and family. If you take proper care of them they will reward you with new leaves and a healthy plant!

Happy Gardening!

Best Fertilizer Guide for Indoor Bird of Paradise Plants

November 21, 2023 Leave a Comment

The bird of paradise plant (Strelitzia Reginae) is beautiful, and exotic and is one of many popular indoor plants today! It is known for its striking orange and blue flowers, which resemble a bird in flight and its large leaves similar to banana plants. The BOP is a fast-growing houseplant, reaching heights of 6-10 feet as houseplants but as mature plants in nature can reach heights of 30 feet! Now that’s a giant bird of paradise! To grow your own giant you need to know a few things but what is most important is how to pick the best fertilizer for the Bird of Paradise plant and how to properly use it!

Quick Bird of Paradise Plant Care Tips

The plant is relatively easy to care for and can thrive in a variety of climates. When grown as houseplants they love bright light with some direct sunlight throughout the day. Bops also thrive in a space with high humidity. If your home has humidity lower than 50% please consider placing a humidifier nearby. The Bird of Paradise needs a well-draining soil mix and a pot with a drainage hole in the bottom. Water them when the first two inches of soil are dry. Make sure not to water them too frequently as they can suffer from root rot. If you don’t have enough light in your home you can supplement with a grow light positioned above your plant.

Why Grow a Bird of Paradise plant

Striking Appearance: Bird of paradise plants are known for their large, banana-shaped leaves and vibrant orange and blue flowers, which resemble a bird in flight. Their tropical appearance adds a touch of exotic flair to any indoor space.
Easy Care: Bird of Paradise plants are relatively easy to care for, making them a good choice for plant enthusiasts of all levels. They can tolerate a wide range of light conditions, from bright indirect sunlight to low light. They also prefer moist soil but can withstand occasional dryness.
Low Maintenance: They are also relatively pest- and disease-resistant, making them low-maintenance houseplants.
Long Lifespan: With proper care, bird of paradise plants can live for many years, making them a rewarding investment for plant lovers.

Bird of paradise plants are beautiful, easy-to-care-for, low-maintenance, and long-lasting houseplants that can add a touch of tropical elegance to your home. Their big wide long leaves are a sight to be hold and you wont regret bringing them into your home.

Best Bird of Paradise Fertilizer

When picking the best fertilizer for the Bird of Paradise let’s start with NPK. NPK is a shorthand way of referencing the three macronutrients that plants need most: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). These nutrients are essential for plant growth and development, and they are often added to fertilizers in specific ratios to meet the needs of different plants.

The NPK ratio on a fertilizer label is generally represented as three numbers, such as 10-5-5. This means that the fertilizer contains 10% nitrogen, 5% phosphorus, and 5% potassium. A higher number for a particular nutrient indicates that the fertilizer contains a higher concentration of that nutrient.

Different plants have different nutrient needs, so it is important to choose a fertilizer with an NPK ratio that is right for the type of plant you are growing.

Here is a general guide to NPK ratios for different types of plants:

Leafy green vegetables: 15-5-5 or 18-5-5
Flowering plants: 10-20-10 or 12-6-6 ( Your Bird of Paradise is here)
Fruiting plants: 6-12-12 or 8-16-16
Lawns: 20-5-5 or 28-0-0

Birds of paradise plants are best fertilized during their active growing season, which is typically from early spring to fall. During this time, the plant is putting on new growth and needs more nutrients to support its development.

Fertilizing schedule for Bird of Paradise plants:

Early Spring: Start Applying a balanced fertilizer every two weeks.
Summer: Continue to fertilize every two weeks.
Fall: Reduce your fertilization to once a month.
Winter: Do not fertilize your plant as often during the winter months, as it is dormant and does not need as many nutrients. You can apply a weak (diluted) fertilizer during this time.

It is important to avoid over-fertilizing birds of paradise plants, as this can damage the roots and burn the leaves. If you are unsure of how much fertilizer to apply, it is always best to err on the side of caution and apply less fertilizer than you think you need.

Fertilizer Types

Many different types of fertilizers can be used for bird of paradise plants, but some of the best include:

Balanced, water-soluble fertilizers: These types of fertilizers are easy to apply and give a quick boost of nutrients to your plant. A balanced fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 is a good choice for your plant.
Slow-release fertilizers: These fertilizers release nutrients slowly over time, which can help to prevent over-fertilization. A slow-release fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 18-6-12 or 16-4-8 is a good choice for the bird of paradise plants.
Organic fertilizers: These fertilizers are made from natural materials, such as compost or manure, and they can help to improve soil health. An organic fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 3-1-2 or 4-2-4 is a very good choice.

The best type of fertilizer for your Bird of Paradise plant will depend on your individual needs and preferences.

Fertilizing Tips!

Consider the size of your plant: Smaller plants will need less fertilizer than larger plants.
Consider the time of year: Plants should be fertilized more often during their active growing season, which is typically from spring to fall.

Organic Fertilizers VS Synthetic Fertilizers

Which is better, organic fertilizers or synthetic fertilizers? The answer depends on your specific needs and priorities.

Organic Fertilizers

Pros:
- Environmentally friendly: Organic fertilizers are made from natural materials and do not contain harmful chemicals.
- Improve soil health: Organic fertilizers help to improve soil structure, water retention, and nutrient availability.
- Promote beneficial microbes: Organic fertilizers encourage the growth of beneficial microorganisms in the soil, which can help to suppress pests and diseases.
- Long-term benefits: Organic fertilizers release nutrients slowly over time, providing long-term benefits for plants.
Cons:
- Slower results: Organic fertilizers may take longer to show results than synthetic fertilizers.
- More expensive: Organic fertilizers can be more expensive than synthetic fertilizers.

Synthetic Fertilizers

Pros:
- Quick results: Synthetic fertilizers provide a quick boost of nutrients to plants.
- More affordable: Synthetic fertilizers are generally more affordable than organic fertilizers.
- Easy to apply: Synthetic fertilizers are often available in convenient forms, such as granular or liquid.
Cons:
- Environmental impact: Synthetic fertilizers can potentially hurt the environment, including water pollution and harm to beneficial soil microorganisms.
- Soil degradation: Overuse of synthetic fertilizers can lead to soil degradation.
- Potential for plant burn: Synthetic fertilizers can burn plants if not applied properly.
- Limited long-term benefits: Synthetic fertilizers release nutrients quickly, but their benefits fade faster than organic fertilizers.

In general, organic fertilizers are a better choice for those who are concerned about the environment and want to promote long-term soil health. Synthetic fertilizers may be a better choice for those who need quick results or are on a tight budget.

Ultimately, the best way to decide which type of fertilizer is right for you is to consider your individual needs and priorities. You may also want to experiment with different types of fertilizers to see what works best for your plants.

Additional Considerations:

The type of plants you are growing: Some plants may respond better to organic fertilizers, while others may prefer synthetic fertilizers.
The condition of your soil: If your soil is depleted of nutrients, you may need to use a synthetic fertilizer to provide a quick boost of nutrients.
Your personal preferences: Some people prefer to use organic fertilizers because they believe they are more environmentally friendly. Others prefer synthetic fertilizers because they are easier to use and provide faster results.

Liquid Fertilizer Vs Granular Fertilizers

Liquid and granular fertilizers are both used to provide plants with essential nutrients, but they have different properties and applications that you need to know about.

Liquid fertilizers are dissolved in water and applied directly to the soil or foliage of plants. They are typically more concentrated than granular fertilizers and are absorbed by plants more quickly. This makes them a good choice for providing a quick boost of nutrients to plants that are stressed or suffering from nutrient deficiencies.

Granular fertilizers are solid pellets that are spread on the soil surface. They release nutrients slowly over time, which makes them a good choice for providing long-term nutrient support to plants. Granular fertilizers are also less likely to burn plants than liquid fertilizers.

Here are the Key differences between liquid and granular fertilizers:

Feature	Liquid fertilizer	Granular fertilizer
Form	Liquid	Solid
Application	Sprayed or watered onto the soil or foliage	Spread on the soil surface
Nutrient release	Quick	Slow
Burning risk	Higher	Lower
Suitability for stressed or deficient plants	High	Low
Suitability for long-term nutrient support	Low	High

How to make your own fertilizers

If you want to save a little money and make your own fertilizer, try out these recipes below!

Composting

Composting is the process of breaking down organic matter, such as food scraps, yard waste, and manure, into nutrient-rich humus. Humus is a dark, crumbly material that improves soil structure, water retention, and nutrient availability. To make compost, simply pile up your organic matter in a bin or compost tumbler and turn it occasionally to aerate it. The compost will be ready to use in a few months to a year.

Compost tea

Compost tea is made by steeping compost in water. This extracts the beneficial microorganisms and nutrients from the compost and makes them available to plants. To make compost tea, simply add a handful of compost to a bucket of water and let it steep for a few hours. The compost tea can then be applied to plants as a foliar spray or soil drench.

Fish emulsion

Fish emulsion is a liquid fertilizer made from fermented fish. It is a good source of nitrogen and phosphorus, and it can also help to repel pests. To make a fish emulsion, simply add a few fish heads or scraps to a bucket of water and let it ferment in the sun for a few weeks. The fish emulsion can then be diluted with water and applied to plants as a foliar spray or soil drench. Make sure not to use this before you have company over. You’ll thank me later.

Seaweed extract

Seaweed extract is a liquid fertilizer made from seaweed. It is a good source of potassium, iron, and other trace minerals. Seaweed extract can also help to improve plant growth and resistance to pests and diseases. To make seaweed extract, simply soak seaweed in water for a few hours and then strain the liquid. The seaweed extract can then be diluted with water and applied to plants as a foliar spray or soil drench.

Manure tea

Manure tea is made by steeping manure in water. It is a good source of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and it can also help to improve soil structure and water retention. To make manure tea, simply add a handful of manure to a bucket of water and let it steep for a few hours. The manure tea can then be diluted with water and applied to plants as a foliar spray or soil drench.

Leaf mold

Leaf mold is made from decomposed leaves. It is a good source of humus and can help to improve soil structure, water retention, and nutrient availability. To make leaf mold, simply pile up a bunch of leaves in a shady spot and let them decompose for a year or two. The leaf mold can then be added to the soil or used as mulch.

These are just a few of the many ways to make your own organic fertilizer.

Here are some additional tips for making your own organic fertilizer:

Use only organic materials: Avoid using synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or fertilizers, as these can contaminate your compost or fertilizer.
Chop up organic matter into small pieces: This will help the material to decompose more quickly.
Turn your compost or fertilizer regularly: This will aerate the material and help it to decompose more evenly.
Be patient: It takes time for organic materials to decompose into fertilizer. Don’t expect to see results overnight.

Worm Castings

Making your own organic fertilizer is a great way to save money, reduce your environmental impact, and improve the health of your plants. With a little care and attention, you can easily create your own nutrient-rich fertilizer that will help your plants thrive for years to come.

worm castings are an excellent fertilizer for the bird of paradise houseplants. They are a natural source of nutrients that can help promote healthy growth and blooming. Worm castings are also known to improve soil quality by increasing drainage, aeration, and nutrient availability.

When applying worm castings to your bird of paradise houseplant, mix about one part worm castings with three parts potting mix. You can also top-dress your plant with a layer of worm castings every few months.

Here are some additional benefits of using worm castings for Bird of Paradise houseplants:

Improve root health: Worm castings contain beneficial microorganisms that can help promote root growth and development.
Increase nutrient uptake: Worm castings provide a readily available source of nutrients that plants can easily absorb.
Suppress pests and diseases: Worm castings contain chitinases, which are enzymes that can help suppress pests and diseases.
Promote beneficial microorganisms: Worm castings are a natural habitat for beneficial microorganisms, which can help to improve overall soil health.
Reduce soil compaction: Worm castings can help to loosen compacted soil, which improves drainage and aeration.
Increase water retention: Worm castings can help to improve the water-holding capacity of the soil, which reduces the need for frequent watering.

Overall, worm castings are a highly beneficial fertilizer for Bird of Paradise houseplants. They provide a natural source of nutrients and improve soil quality, which can help to promote healthy growth and blooming. If you are looking for a natural way to fertilize your bird of paradise houseplant, worm castings are a great option.

Here are some additional tips for using worm castings for Bird of Paradise houseplants:

Choose a high-quality source of worm castings: Look for worm castings that are organic and have been processed to remove any harmful pathogens.
Apply worm castings regularly: Mix worm castings into the potting mix when you repot your plant and top dress with a layer of worm castings every few months.
Do not overfertilize: Overfertilization can damage your plant. Follow the instructions on the package for how much worm castings to use.
Water your plant thoroughly after applying worm castings: This will help the nutrients to soak into the soil.

The benefits of growing the Bird of Paradise

Improve air quality: Houseplants may help to remove harmful toxins, such as formaldehyde, benzene, and trichloroethylene, from the air. This can improve indoor air quality and reduce the risk of respiratory problems.

Boost mood and reduce stress: Studies have shown that being around plants can improve mood, reduce stress, and increase feelings of well-being. This is likely because plants release oxygen and absorb carbon dioxide, which can help to regulate blood pressure and heart rate.

Increase productivity: Studies have also shown that being around plants can increase productivity and creativity. This is likely because plants can help to reduce distractions and improve focus.

They beautify your home: Houseplants can add a touch of greenery and color to any room, making it feel more inviting and relaxing.

Provide a sense of accomplishment and satisfaction: Caring for houseplants can provide a sense of accomplishment and satisfaction. There’s no better feeling than seeing a plant thrive that you’ve been caring for.

Promote mindfulness and relaxation: The act of caring for houseplants can be a form of mindfulness, which can help to reduce stress and promote relaxation.

Overall, growing houseplants can have many benefits for your physical and psychological health. They may help to improve air quality, boost mood, reduce stress, increase productivity, enhance the appearance of a room, improve humidity, provide a sense of accomplishment, promote mindfulness, and reduce noise levels. If you are looking for a way to improve your overall well-being, consider adding some houseplants to your home.

Five types of Bird of Paradise you can grow

Strelitzia Reginae (Bird of Paradise): This is the most common and well-known variety of birds of paradise. It is a large, showy plant with banana-like leaves and vibrant orange and blue flowers that resemble a bird in flight.
Strelitzia Nicolai (White Bird of Paradise): This variety is similar to the Strelitzia reginae, but it has white flowers with blue edges. It is also a larger plant, growing up to 30 feet tall.
Strelitzia Juncea (Narrow-Leafed Bird of Paradise): This variety has narrow, sword-like leaves and orange flowers with blue edges. It is a smaller plant than the Strelitzia Reginae, growing up to 10 feet tall.
Strelitzia Caudata (Mountain Strelitzia): This variety is native to the mountains of South Africa. It has long, slender leaves and orange flowers with blue edges.

Posts you may be interested in!

Each variety of bird of paradise plant has its own unique beauty and can add a touch of exotic flair to any home. When choosing a variety of bird of paradise plants to grow, consider the amount of space you have available, the amount of sunlight your home receives, and your personal preferences.

You have now learned how to choose the best fertilizer for the Bird of Paradise and a little bit more. Are you ready to grow a happy healthy plant?

Happy Gardening!

Your Guide to the Best Fertilizer for Monstera Deliciosa

November 10, 2023 2 Comments

Monstera deliciosa, also known as the Swiss cheese plant, is an insanely popular houseplant known for its large, heart-shaped leaves with unique perforations. It is native to the rainforests of Central and South America, where it can grow up to 70 feet tall! However, when grown indoors, it typically reaches a height of 3-6 feet. If you want to grow a HUGE plant then you need to figure out what the best fertilizer for Monstera is.

Monstera deliciosa is an easy going plant, making it a good choice for beginner plant owners. It prefers bright, indirect light and moist, well-draining soil. It is important to avoid overwatering, as this can lead to root rot. Monstera deliciosa also benefits from regular fertilization, especially during the growing season. In this post we will teach you about fertilizer and how to pick the best fertilizer for Monstera Deliciosa.

Best Fertilizer for Monstera Deliciosa

Fertilizing Houseplants: Why It’s Important and How to Do It

Fertilizing houseplants is a crucial part of plant care. It helps to ensure that your plants have the nutrients they need to grow and thrive. Houseplants grown in pots have a limited supply of nutrients. Over time, the nutrients in the potting mix are depleted, and the plants need to be fertilized to replenish them.

Here are some of the benefits of fertilizing indoor plants:

Promotes healthy growth and development. The right fertilizer provides plants with the essential nutrients they need to grow new leaves, stems, and roots. It also helps to improve plant size and vigor.
Increases flowering and fruiting. Fertilizers can help plants to produce more flowers and fruit. It can also improve the quality and size of blooms.
Improves plant resistance to pests and diseases. Well-fertilized plants are healthier and more resilient, making them less susceptible to pests and diseases.
Extends plant life. Fertilizer helps plants to stay healthy and productive for longer periods of time.

There are two main types of fertilizer

Organic vs Inorganic Fertilizer

Organic fertilizers come from plants and animals, such as manure, compost, and bone meal. Inorganic fertilizers are made from synthetic chemicals. Both can be effective, but organic fertilizers are generally considered to be better for the environment. We will talk more about Organic and Inorganic also known a synthetic fertilizer below.

Organic or Synthetic? Which should you use?

Organic fertilizers and Synthetic Fertilizers are both used to provide plants with the nutrients they need to grow and thrive. However, there are some key differences between the two types of fertilizers.

Organic fertilizers are derived from natural sources, such as plant and animal materials. They are typically slower-acting than synthetic fertilizers, but they can improve the overall health and fertility of the soil over time. Organic fertilizers also help to promote beneficial soil microbes, which can improve plant health and resistance to pests and diseases.

Synthetic fertilizers are manufactured from chemical compounds. They are typically faster-acting than organic fertilizers, and they can provide plants with a quick boost of nutrients. However, synthetic fertilizers can also damage the soil and pollute groundwater if they are overused.

Here is a table comparing organic and synthetic fertilizers:

Characteristic	Organic fertilizers	Synthetic fertilizers
Origin	Natural	Chemical
Speed of release	Slow-acting	Fast-acting
Effect on soil	Improves soil health and fertility	Can damage soil if overused
Effect on plant health	Promotes healthy growth and resistance to pests and diseases	Can provide a quick boost of nutrients
Environmental impact	Low	High if overused

When to fertilize houseplants

The best time to fertilize houseplants is during the growing season, which is typically early spring to fall. During this time, the plants are actively growing and require more nutrients. During the winter months your Monstera might be growing as quickly so diluting your fertilizer down during this time is important.

How to fertilize houseplants

There are a few different ways to fertilize houseplants. The most common method is to use a liquid fertilizer. Liquid fertilizers are diluted with water and applied to the soil around the plant. Another method is to use a slow-release fertilizer. Slow-release fertilizers are applied to the soil and gradually release nutrients over time.

Here are some tips for fertilizing houseplants:

Always follow the directions on the fertilizer label. Over-fertilizing can damage or kill plants.
Water your plants before fertilizing. This will help to prevent root burn.
Apply fertilizer to the soil around the plant, avoiding the leaves and stems.
Water your plants after fertilizing to help distribute the nutrients throughout the soil.

If you are unsure about how often to fertilize your houseplants or how much fertilizer to apply, it is always best to err on the side of caution and use less fertilizer than you think is necessary.

Here are several related posts you may be interested in:

The N-P-K ratio is and How it Relates to Fertilizing:

NPK stands for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. These are the three macronutrients that plants need in the largest quantities.

Nitrogen is essential for plant growth and development. It helps plants to produce new leaves, stems, and roots.
Phosphorus is important for root development and flowering. It also helps plants to absorb other nutrients.
Potassium is necessary for cell growth and development. It also helps plants to resist pests and diseases.

NPK fertilizers are a common type of fertilizer that contains all three of these macronutrients. The numbers on the fertilizer label indicate the percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in the fertilizer. For example, a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 10-10-10 contains 10% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, and 10% potassium.

NPK fertilizers are available in a variety of forms, including liquid fertilizers, granular fertilizers, and slow-release fertilizers. We will go into more detail about fertilizer forms below. The best type of NPK fertilizer to use will depend on the type of plants you are growing and the needs of your soil.

Fertilizers can also be classified by their form

Liquid fertilizers: These fertilizers are dissolved in water and applied to the soil or leaves of plants.
Granular fertilizer: These fertilizers are in the form of small pellets that are applied to the top of the soil.
Slow-release fertilizers: These fertilizers release nutrients slowly over time. They are often in the form of granules or tablets that are applied to the soil.

Which is the best fertilizer for Monstera depends on your individual needs and preferences. If you are looking for a fertilizer that will improve the long-term health of your soil and plants, then an organic fertilizer is a good choice. However if you are looking for a fertilizer that will provide your plants with a quick boost of nutrients, then a synthetic fertilizer may be a better option. Using a combination of both is a great way to get the best of both.

Homemade Fertilizers and How to make your own!

Here are some recipes for homemade fertilizers that you can make using common household ingredients:

Coffee grounds fertilizer

Coffee grounds are a good source of nitrogen, which is essential for plant growth. To make coffee grounds fertilizer, simply add a handful of coffee grounds to the soil around your plants. You can also water your plants with coffee grounds tea, which is made by soaking coffee grounds in water for a few hours.

Banana peel fertilizer

Banana peels are a good source of potassium, which is important for plant flowering and fruiting. To make banana peel fertilizer, dry banana peels in the oven at low heat until they are crispy. Then, grind the banana peels into a powder and add it to the soil around your plants.

Epsom salt fertilizer

Epsom salt contains magnesium, which is important for plant chlorophyll production. To make Epsom salt fertilizer, dissolve one tablespoon of Epsom salt in a gallon of water. Apply the Epsom salt solution to the soil around your plants every two weeks.

Fish emulsion fertilizer

Fish emulsion is a liquid fertilizer that is made from fish waste. It is a good source of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. To use fish emulsion fertilizer, dilute it with water according to the package directions and water your plants with the diluted solution. Beware of using this fertilizer right before company comes over. The smell tends to linger for a few days.

Compost tea

Compost tea is a liquid fertilizer that is made from compost. It is a good source of all the essential nutrients that plants need. To make compost tea, steep compost in water for a few days. Then, strain the compost tea and apply it to your plants.

Worm Castings

Worm castings are the excrement of earthworms. They are a natural fertilizer that is rich in nutrients and beneficial microbes. Worm castings are dark brown or black in color and have a crumbly texture. They are odorless and easy to use.

You can also mix and match these ingredients to create your own custom fertilizer blends.

For example, you could mix coffee grounds, banana peel powder, and Epsom salt to create a fertilizer high in nitrogen, potassium, and magnesium.

It is important to note that homemade fertilizers can vary in strength and potency. It is always best to start with a diluted solution.

The best fertilizers for monstera deliciosa are those high in nitrogen and potassium. Nitrogen is essential for leaf growth, while potassium helps to promote strong roots and stems.

Here are some specific fertilizer recommendations:

Balanced liquid fertilizer: A balanced liquid fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 is a good option for monstera deliciosa plants. You can dilute the fertilizer to half-strength and apply it every two weeks during the growing season.
Slow-release fertilizer: A slow-release fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 12-6-6 or 14-14-14 is another good option for monstera deliciosa plants. You can apply slow-release fertilizer once every three months.
Organic fertilizer: Organic fertilizers, such as compost tea or fish emulsion, are also good options for monstera deliciosa plants. Apply organic fertilizers every two weeks during the growing season.

Here are the top 10 Monstera fertilizers from Amazon, based on customer reviews and ratings:

Monstera Plant Food – Indoor Plant Fertilizer (Liquid Alternative)
GARDENERA Monstera Plant Superfood – Organic Liquid Kelp Fertilizer for Stunning Growth and Vibrant Foliage
Lush Leaf | Plant Food (Monstera)
Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food, Liquid Fertilizer for All Types of Plants In Small or Large Indoor Pots
Bonide Liquid Monstera Plant Food
Schultz Superbloom Liquid Plant Food
Espoma Liquid Indoor Plant Food
Jack’s Classic All-Purpose Fertilizer
Plant Joy Organic All Purpose Fertilizer

All of these fertilizers are highly rated by customers and work well for monstera plants. They contain the essential nutrients that monstera plants need to grow and thrive.

No matter which fertilizer you choose, it is important to follow the directions on the label. Over-fertilizing can damage your plant, so it is always best to err on the side of caution and use less fertilizer than you think is necessary.

Fertilizing issues are one of the most common problems that houseplant owners face. Too much fertilizer, too little fertilizer, or the wrong kind of fertilizer can all damage your plants.

How to apply Fertilizers

There are two main ways to apply fertilizer to your plants: foliar feeding and soil fertilization.

Foliar feeding is the application of fertilizer directly to the leaves of a plant. This is a quick way to get nutrients into the plant, but it is important to note that not all fertilizers are suitable for foliar feeding. Be sure to read the label carefully to make sure that the fertilizer you are using is safe to apply to the leaves of your plant.

Soil fertilization is the application of fertilizer to the soil around the roots of a plant. This is a more traditional method of fertilization, and it is generally more effective than foliar feeding. However, it is important to note that it can take longer for the nutrients to reach the plant when they are applied to the soil.

Here are some specific tips for foliar feeding:

Dilute the fertilizer to half strength. This will help to prevent leaf burn.
Apply the fertilizer to the underside of the leaves. This is where the plant’s stomata are located, and where the nutrients will be absorbed most easily.
Avoid applying fertilizer in direct sunlight. This can also cause leaf burn.

Here are some specific tips for soil fertilization:

Apply the fertilizer to the soil around the base of the plant. Avoid applying fertilizer directly to the stem of the plant.
Gently water the fertilizer into the soil. This will help to distribute the nutrients throughout the soil.
Fertilize your plants regularly during the growing season. However, reduce or stop fertilizing during the dormant season.

Here are some of the most common fertilizing issues with Monstera:

Fertilizer burn: This is caused by using too much fertilizer, or by using a fertilizer that is too strong. Symptoms of fertilizer burn include browning leaf margins, leaf scorch, and leaf drop.
Nutrient deficiency: This is caused by not fertilizing enough, or by using a fertilizer that does not contain the nutrients that your plant needs. Symptoms of nutrient deficiency vary depending on the nutrient that is missing but can include yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and poor flowering.
Salt buildup: This can occur when you use water-soluble fertilizers that contain high levels of salts. Symptoms of salt buildup include white crusty deposits on the soil surface, browning leaf margins, and leaf drop. Flush your plant with water every few months to remove buildup.

If you suspect that your plant has a fertilizing issue, you can take the following steps:

Identify the problem. Is the plant over-fertilized, under-fertilized, or suffering from salt buildup?
Take corrective action. If the plant is over-fertilized, flush it with water and reduce or stop fertilizing. If the plant is under-fertilized, start fertilizing with a balanced fertilizer. If the plant is suffering from salt buildup, flush it with water more frequently.
Be patient. It may take some time for your plant to recover from a fertilizing issue.

How to fertilize Monstera Deliciosas in your garden

To fertilize Monstera deliciosas in the garden, you can use a balanced fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 20-10-10 or higher. You can also use a fertilizer that is specifically designed for tropical plants.

Here are some tips for fertilizing Monstera deliciosas in your garden:

Fertilize your plants every two weeks during the growing season (spring and summer). Reduce or stop fertilizing during the dormant season (fall and winter).
Apply fertilizer to the soil around the base of the plant. Avoid applying fertilizer directly to the stem of the plant.
Gently water the fertilizer into the soil. This will help to distribute the nutrients throughout the soil.
Be careful not to over-fertilize your plants. Over-fertilizing can damage or kill your plants.

Once you find the best fertilizer for Monstera Deliciosa you can begin to implement a fertilization schedule for your plant. You will soon see if you picked a good fertilizer based on how your plant is doing. A good fertilizer will provide your plant with enough nutrients to grow large leaves and stems.

How to repot a Monstera Deliciosa

Needs:

A monstera deliciosa plant
A pot with drainage holes
Potting mix
Water
Fertilizer

Instructions:

Choose a pot that is slightly larger than the root ball of your plant. The pot should also have drainage holes to prevent the roots from sitting in water.
Fill the pot with potting mix, leaving about an inch of space at the top.
Place your plant in the pot and backfill with potting mix, gently tamping down around the roots.
Water your plant thoroughly until water runs out of the drainage holes.
Place your plant in a bright, indirect light location. Avoid placing your plant in direct sunlight, as this can scorch the leaves.
Water your plant regularly, allowing the top inch of soil to dry out between waterings.
Fertilize your plant every two weeks during the growing season (spring and summer) with a balanced fertilizer. Reduce or stop fertilizing during the dormant season (fall and winter).

Tips:

Monstera deliciosa plants are vining plants, so they may need support as they grow. You can provide support by using a moss pole, trellis, or stake.
Monstera deliciosa plants can be propagated from stem cuttings. To propagate, simply cut a stem from the plant and place it in water. Roots will form within a few weeks. Once the roots are a few inches long, you can plant the cutting in a pot with potting mix.
Monstera deliciosa plants are relatively low-maintenance plants, but they can be susceptible to pests and diseases. Be sure to inspect your plant regularly for signs of pests or diseases. If you see any problems, treat them immediately.

For a full Guide to Growing Monstera Deliciosa check out our post here!

Here are five inexpensive Monstera plants you can own:

Monstera adansonii: This monstera plant has smaller, fenestrate leaves than most other monstera plants. It is also a relatively low-maintenance plant, making it a good choice for beginner plant parents.
Monstera minima: This monstera plant is a miniature version of the Monstera deliciosa. It has small, heart-shaped leaves with fenestrations. Monstera minima is a slow-growing plant, but it is easy to care for.
Monstera obliqua: This monstera plant has unique, velvety leaves with silver markings. It is a more delicate plant than other monsteras, but it is still relatively easy to care for.
Monstera Peru: This monstera plant has large, heart-shaped leaves with deep fenestrations. It is a vigorous grower and can be trained to climb a trellis or stake.
Monstera standleyana: This monstera plant has large, oval-shaped leaves with fenestrations. It is a fast-growing plant and can be trained to climb a trellis or stake.

All of these monstera plants can be found at most plant stores for a relatively inexpensive price. They are all easy to care for and make great additions to your collection.

Monstera deliciosa is a versatile plant that can be grown in a variety of ways. It can be grown as a stand-alone plant, or it can be trained to climb a trellis or stake. In its natural habitat, the Monstera Deliciosa is a vigorous climber so it’s a good idea to play into their nature and give them something to climb. As they climb, your Monstera’s leaves will get bigger and more fenestrated. It really is a gorgeous sight to see!

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Happy Gardening!

Best Fertilizer for Monstera Adansonii | Fertilizing Guide

November 10, 2023 Leave a Comment

The Best Fertilizer for Monstera Adansonii

Monstera Adansonii is a gorgeous, fenestrated tropical plant that is also known as the Swiss cheese plant. Monsteras are popular indoor plants, loved by many all over the world.

Monstera Adansonii Characteristics

The Adansonii is a fast-growing vining plant that can reach up to 30 feet in length in its natural habitat, but it is typically grown as a potted plant indoors. Many do not reach 30 feet indoors, but with the right care I bet they could! They are one of many tropical plants that climb using aerial roots. These aerial roots allow them to climb any surface they choose, even buildings!

Although Monstera is easy to care for, it needs regular fertilization to meet its nutritional needs.

Monstera Adansonii is relatively easy to grow which makes it an awesome choice for beginner plant parents. It prefers bright, indirect light and moist soil. It is also relatively pest and disease resistant.

The most effective way to choose the best fertilizer for Monstera Adansonii is to gain a deeper understanding of fertilizers in general, and I can help you with that!

Let’s start with the different forms of fertilizers

Organic granular fertilizer: These fertilizers are slow-release, which means they release nutrients over time, preventing nutrient burn. A balanced fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 is a good option. Apply every 6-8 weeks during the growing season.

Slow-release fertilizer sticks: These pre-measured sticks are easy to use and provide a steady supply of nutrients for several months. Apply once every 2-3 months during the growing season.

Water-soluble or liquid fertilizer: These fertilizers are quick-acting and can be used to give your Monstera Adansonii a boost of nutrients. Dilute the fertilizer to half-strength and apply every 2-4 weeks during the growing season.

Compost or worm castings: These organic amendments provide a slow release of nutrients and improve soil health. Top-dress your Monstera adansonii with a layer of compost or worm castings every few months.

Here are some additional tips for fertilizing Monstera Adansonii:

Do not fertilize at full strength during the winter when the plant is dormant.
Fertilize less often if your Monstera Adansonii is young or pot-bound.
Watch for signs of nutrient deficiency, such as yellowing leaves.
Avoid over-fertilizing, as it can cause fertilizer burn.

What is NPK and why you need to know about it:

NPK stands for nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), which are the three primary macronutrients essential for plant growth.

These nutrients are often listed on fertilizer labels in a specific ratio, such as 10-10-10 or 20-20-20. The numbers represent the percentage of each nutrient in the fertilizer by weight.

Nitrogen (N): Nitrogen is crucial for leaf growth and development. It promotes lush green foliage and helps plants absorb other nutrients.
Phosphorus (P): Phosphorus is essential for root growth and development. It also plays a role in flower and fruit formation.
Potassium (K): Potassium strengthens plant stems and roots, making them more resistant to diseases and environmental stresses. It also helps regulate water balance in plants.

The specific NPK ratio of a fertilizer depends on the type of plant you are growing and its stage of development. For instance, leafy greens like lettuce and kale require more nitrogen, while flowering plants like tomatoes and peppers need more phosphorus.

Here’s a general guideline for NPK ratios based on plant type:

Leafy greens: 20-10-10 or 25-8-9
Flowering plants: 10-20-10 or 12-24-12
Fruiting plants: 15-15-15 or 17-17-17
Fruit trees: 10-10-10 or 12-12-12

When selecting a fertilizer, consider the specific needs of your plants and the overall health of your soil. Always follow the application instructions on the fertilizer label to avoid over-fertilizing, which can damage plants.

Synthetic Fertilizers VS Organic Fertilizers

Synthetic and organic fertilizers are both used to provide plants with essential nutrients, but they differ in their origin, composition, and effects on the environment.

Origin

Synthetic fertilizers: Also known as inorganic fertilizers, these are manufactured from chemicals and minerals. They are typically produced in industrial settings and involve chemical processes.
Organic fertilizers: Derived from natural sources, such as plant and animal waste, compost, and manure. They are often produced through composting or other methods that involve the breakdown of organic materials.

Composition

Synthetic fertilizers: Contain specific nutrients in precise ratios, typically nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). They are often concentrated and readily available for plant uptake.
Organic fertilizers: Contain a variety of nutrients, including N, P, and K, but may also contain micronutrients and other beneficial compounds. They release nutrients slowly over time, as they are broken down by soil organisms.

Effects on the environment

Synthetic fertilizers: Can have potential environmental impacts, such as nutrient runoff into waterways, which can lead to algal blooms and oxygen depletion. They may also contribute to soil acidification.
Organic fertilizers: Generally considered more environmentally friendly as they promote soil health, improve soil structure, and increase microbial activity. They are less likely to cause nutrient runoff or soil acidification.

Suitability for different plants

Synthetic fertilizers: Suitable for plants that require a quick boost of nutrients, especially during the growing season. They can be particularly effective for crops and fast-growing plants.
Organic fertilizers: Suitable for plants that prefer a slow and steady release of nutrients and thrive in healthy soil conditions. They are often preferred for organic gardening and for plants that are sensitive to salt buildup.

Synthetic fertilizers offer a quick and concentrated source of nutrients, while organic fertilizers promote long-term soil health and provide a more gradual nutrient release.

The choice between synthetic and organic fertilizers depends on various factors, including plant type, soil conditions, environmental considerations, and personal preferences.

When is the best time to begin fertilizing your monstera? Now is a great time but if you want to wait to formulate a fertilizer plan you can wait until early spring when the plant is in active growth.

Different Fertilizer options

Balanced liquid fertilizer: A balanced liquid fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 is a good all-purpose fertilizer for Monstera adansonii. Dilute the fertilizer to half strength and apply it every 2-4 weeks during the growing season.

Fish emulsion fertilizer: Fish emulsion fertilizer is a natural and organic fertilizer that is rich in nitrogen and phosphorus. It is a good choice for Monstera adansonii that are showing signs of nutrient deficiency, such as yellowing leaves. Mix fish emulsion fertilizer with water according to the instructions on the label and apply it every 4-6 weeks during the growing season.

Slow-release granular fertilizer: Slow-release granular fertilizer is a convenient option that provides nutrients to your Monstera adansonii over time. The best time to apply slow-release granular fertilizer is every 3-6 months during the growing season.

Compost or worm castings: Compost and worm castings are organic amendments that provide a slow and steady release of nutrients to your Monstera adansonii. They also help to improve soil structure and drainage. Top-dress your Monstera adansonii with compost or worm castings every few months.

Here are some additional tips for fertilizing Monstera adansonii:

Do not use a full dose of fertilizer on your Monstera adansonii during the winter months when it is no in active growth.
Fertilize less often if your Monstera adansonii is young or pot-bound.
Watch for signs of nutrient deficiency, such as yellowing or browning leaves, before fertilizing.

Liquid Fertilizer VS Granular Fertilizer

Liquid and granular fertilizers are both effective ways to provide plants with essential nutrients, but they have different properties and applications.

Liquid fertilizer

Appearance and application: Liquid fertilizer is a concentrated solution of nutrients dissolved in water. It is typically applied through a hose attachment or watering can.
Nutrient release: Liquid fertilizer provides nutrients quickly and efficiently, making it ideal for situations where a quick boost of nutrients is needed.
Convenience: Liquid fertilizer is easy to apply and can be mixed with water to adjust the nutrient concentration.
Shelf life: Liquid fertilizer typically has a shorter shelf life than granular fertilizer.

Granular fertilizer

Appearance and application: Granular fertilizer is made up of small, dry pellets that contain concentrated nutrients. It is typically spread over the soil surface and watered in.
Nutrient release: Granular fertilizer releases nutrients slowly over time, making it a good choice for long-term nutrient supply.
Cost-effectiveness: Granular fertilizer is often more cost-effective than liquid fertilizer, especially when purchased in bulk.
Storage: Granular fertilizer has a longer shelf life than liquid fertilizer.

Choosing the right fertilizer

The best type of fertilizer for your plants depends on several factors, including the type of plants, the time of year, and your personal preferences.

Here are some general guidelines:

Use liquid fertilizer for plants that need a quick boost of nutrients or that are sensitive to salt buildup.
Use granular fertilizer for plants that need a long-term supply of nutrients or that are not sensitive to salt buildup.
Always follow the instructions on the fertilizer label to avoid over-fertilizing.

How to make your own Fertilizer

Making your own fertilizer is a great way to save money, reduce waste, and give your plants a boost of nutrients.

Compost tea: Compost tea is a nutrient-rich liquid made from compost and water. To make compost tea, simply steep compost in water for 24-48 hours. Strain the tea and dilute it with water before applying it to your plants.

Comfrey tea: Comfrey is a plant that is high in nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus. To make comfrey tea, steep comfrey leaves in water for 24 hours. Dilute the tea with water before applying it to your plants.

Eggshell fertilizer: Eggshells are a good source of calcium, which is essential for healthy plant cell walls. To make eggshell fertilizer, crush eggshells into a fine powder and sprinkle them around your plants.

Coffee ground fertilizer: Coffee grounds are a good source of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. To make coffee ground fertilizer, add coffee grounds to your compost pile or spread them around your plants.

Banana peel fertilizer: Banana peels are a good source of potassium and magnesium. To make banana peel fertilizer, bury banana peels in your soil or add them to your compost pile.

Fish emulsion fertilizer: Fish emulsion is a concentrated liquid fertilizer made from fish waste. It is a good source of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. To use fish emulsion fertilizer, dilute it with water according to the instructions on the label.

Seaweed fertilizer: Seaweed is a good source of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and trace minerals. To use seaweed fertilizer, soak seaweed in water for 24 hours and then dilute the solution with water before applying it to your plants.

When using homemade fertilizer, it is important to start with small amounts and gradually increase the amount as needed.

It is also important to watch for signs of nutrient burn, such as yellowing or browning of leaves. If you see signs of nutrient burn, reduce the amount of fertilizer you are using.

Here are some additional tips for making and using homemade fertilizer:

Use only organic ingredients to avoid introducing harmful chemicals into your soil.
Use composted materials whenever possible, as they are more readily absorbed by plants.
Apply fertilizer regularly during the growing season, but be sure to follow the instructions on the label to avoid over-fertilizing.
Water your plants thoroughly after applying fertilizer to help the nutrients reach the roots.
Test your soil regularly to determine if it needs fertilizer.

Best Fertilizer for Monstera Adansonii

The best fertilizer for Monstera Adansonii is balanced and specifically formulated for foliage plants. It should have a high nitrogen content to encourage leaf growth, but also contain phosphorus and potassium for overall plant health. The fertilizer you choose can have a range in NPK but just make sure its higher in nitrogen.

Here are a few specific fertilizer recommendations:

DynaGro Foliage Pro 9-3-6
Alaska Fish Fertilizer
Espoma Organic Monstera Food
Dr. Earth Organic Liquid Fertilizer for Tropical Plants
Worm Castings

You can also use a general-purpose houseplant fertilizer, but be sure to dilute it to half strength.

Here is a general fertilizing schedule for Monstera adansonii:

Spring and summer: Fertilize every two weeks with a balanced fertilizer diluted to half strength.
Fall and winter: Fertilize once a month with a balanced fertilizer diluted to half strength.

If you have recently repotted your Monstera adansonii, do not fertilize for at least a month. The new potting mix will contain enough nutrients to sustain your plant for that period of time.

How to Grow Monstera Adansonii:

Lighting

Monstera adansonii prefers bright, indirect light. Place it near a window, but avoid direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaves. If you don’t have a bright window, you can supplement it with a grow light.

Watering

Water your Monstera adansonii when the top inch of soil is dry to the touch. Water thoroughly until water runs out of the drainage holes. Do not let the plant sit in water, this can lead to root rot.

Humidity

Monstera adansonii likes humidity. Mist the leaves regularly, especially during the winter when the air is dry. You can also place the pot on a pebble tray filled with water or add in a humidifier for higher and consistent humidity.

Maintaining consistent humidity for houseplants is essential for their health, as many tropical and subtropical plants come from humid environments.

5 Ways to increase humidity around your houseplants:

Grouping plants: Place your plants together to create a microclimate with higher humidity. As plants transpire, they release moisture into the surrounding air, increasing the overall humidity level.
Pebble trays: Fill a shallow tray with pebbles or gravel and place your plants on top. Pour water into the tray until the pebbles are partially submerged. The water will evaporate, increasing humidity around the plants.
Misting: Regularly mist your plants with a spray bottle filled with room-temperature water. Misting directly onto the leaves and around the plant will provide a quick boost of humidity.
Humidifier: Invest in a room humidifier to increase the overall humidity level in your home. Place the humidifier near your plants to ensure they receive adequate moisture.
Place plants in humid rooms: Consider placing your plants in naturally humid rooms, such as bathrooms or kitchens, where moisture is more prevalent.

Soil

Monstera adansonii prefers a well-draining potting mix. You can use a commercial potting mix made for tropical plants or make your own by mixing equal parts potting soil, perlite, and peat moss.

Pruning

Prune your Monstera adansonii to control its size and shape. You can also prune to remove any yellow or damaged leaves.

Pests and diseases

Monstera adansonii is relatively pest and disease resistant. However, it can be susceptible to mealybugs, spider mites, and scale insects. If you notice any pests, treat the plant with an insecticidal soap or neem oil.

Repotting

Repot your Monstera adansonii every 1-2 years, or when it outgrows its current pot. Choose a pot that is one size larger than the current pot and use a fresh potting mix.

Additional tips

Provide your Monstera adansonii with a moss pole or trellis to help it climb.
Wipe the leaves off with a damp cloth to remove dust.
Keep your Monstera adansonii away from drafts and extreme temperatures.

Here are 10 interesting facts about monstera plants:

Monstera plants are native to tropical rainforests in Central and South America. They are climbing vines that can grow up to 100 feet long in their natural habitat.
Monstera plants are known for their large, heart-shaped leaves with fenestrations, or holes. The holes in the leaves are thought to help reduce wind resistance and allow sunlight to penetrate through the canopy to the lower leaves.
Monstera plants are also known for their fruit, which is called a spathe. The spathe is a large, fleshy structure that encloses the flowers. The fruit is edible when it is fully ripe, and it has a flavor that has been described as a combination of pineapple, banana, and mango.
Monstera plants are relatively easy to care for as houseplants. They prefer bright, indirect light, and they should be watered when the top inch of soil is dry to the touch.
Monstera plants are not toxic to humans or pets. However, the leaves can irritate the skin and mouth if they are chewed on.
Monstera plants are a popular symbol of good luck and prosperity. They are often given as gifts to represent new beginnings and fresh starts.
Monstera plants have been used in traditional medicine for centuries. The leaves are said to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties.
Monstera plants are a popular subject of art and photography. Their unique foliage and tropical origins make them a striking subject for creative expression.
Monstera plants are a versatile addition to any home décor. They can be grown in pots, baskets, or hanging planters.
Monstera plants are a symbol of resilience and adaptability. They can thrive in a variety of environments, from humid rainforests to dry apartments.

5 Easy to grow monstera varieties you might like:

Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant): This is the most common and easiest to grow monstera variety. It has large, fenestrated leaves that can grow up to 3 feet long. Monstera deliciosa is a vining plant, so it needs a trellis or stake to climb.
Monstera obliqua (Peruvian philodendron): This monstera variety is known for its unique, heart-shaped leaves with large fenestrations. It is a bit more difficult to care for than other monstera varieties, but it is still relatively easy to grow.
Monstera siltepecana (Silver monstera): This monstera variety has silvery-green leaves with dark green veins. It is a slow-growing plant, but it is relatively easy to care for.
Monstera standleyana (Shingle plant): This monstera variety has small, heart-shaped leaves with wavy edges. It is a slow-growing plant, but it is relatively easy to care for.
Monstera acuminata (Five holes plant): This monstera variety has small, fenestrated leaves with five holes. It is a slow-growing plant, but it is relatively easy to care for.

Finding the best fertilizer for Monstera Adansonii and creating a good fertilizer schedule will ensure that your plant is getting enough nutrients. You will begin to see healthy growth on your plant such as more new leaves and bigger leaves. Healthy plants are more resistant to pest attacks and live a lot longer than plants that are not fertilized. Keeping your Monstera Adansonii fertilized properly will ensure a happy and healthy plant!

Happy Gardening!